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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar high-end venues. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has left the owners totally astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” states a family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble shop securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.